Frequently Asked Questions

Most of the cost is in labor, equipment and preparation, not the asphalt alone. HomeGuide puts labor at about $3 to $6 or more per square foot and materials at $2 to $6 or more. Removing old pavement, rebuilding a soft base and hauling material all add cost, and small jobs carry the same crew and equipment as larger ones, which is why some contractors have minimums.

HomeGuide lists standard asphalt driveways at about $5 to $12 or more per square foot, and Angi lists $7 to $15. A 20 by 20 foot driveway, 400 square feet, comes out to about $2,000 to $4,800 in HomeGuide's table. Your written estimate is the price.

Yes, if the old asphalt is structurally sound. Failed sections are cut out and rebuilt first, cracks are filled, and a tack coat bonds the new layer. If most of the surface has failed, replacement is the better choice.

Cost guides put asphalt driveways at roughly 15 to 30 years. Sun and heat in the Perris Valley push that toward the short end unless the surface is sealed every few years and cracks are repaired.

Spring and fall are the most comfortable, but we pave year-round. In summer we start early so new asphalt is not marked up in the afternoon heat; in winter we work around rain.

Usually after two to three days, longer in summer. Avoid turning your wheels in place, parking in the same spot every day, and setting trailer jacks or kickstands on it for the first few weeks.

HomeGuide recommends waiting 3 to 6 months after paving, then resealing every few years.

Usually one to three days: removal and base work first, paving in a day once the base is ready.

For cars on a solid base, 2 to 3 inches compacted is a common residential section. For trucks, trailers or RVs, 3 to 4 inches over a deeper base is the safer choice.

It is possible if the slabs are stable, but joints and cracks tend to show through. Removing the concrete usually gives a longer-lasting result.

If your home is in an HOA, usually yes. Check your architectural guidelines before scheduling.

About $2,000 to $4,800 in HomeGuide's national table for standard asphalt, before removal or base repair.

HomeAdvisor lists about $400 to $1,130 per space nationally. Truck sections, base repair and grading move the number.

HomeAdvisor lists asphalt at about $2 to $4.50 per square foot and concrete at about $4 to $7. Asphalt costs less up front and is easier to repair; concrete is often used for dumpster pads and other heavy spots.

Yes. We phase the lot and can work nights or weekends.

Yes, with a deeper base and thicker asphalt sized to the loads.

HomeAdvisor suggests planning to repave every 15 to 20 years, and puts asphalt lots at about 20 to 30 years overall with maintenance. Sealing and crack repair on a schedule push a lot toward the longer end.

Yes, if the base is sound. We repair failed areas first and use a tack coat to bond the layers.

Usually 1.5 to 2 inches compacted, depending on traffic and the existing surface.

Some may reflect through over time. Repairs before the overlay slow that down.

Usually. HomeGuide estimates an overlay saves about 20 to 30 percent compared with replacing a driveway in reasonable condition.

We phase the work by section so residents keep access, and post notices ahead of time.

The top of the old asphalt is ground off and replaced with new asphalt at the same height, so gutters, curbs and driveway lips stay aligned.

Every two to four years is a practical plan in this climate. Reseal when the surface turns gray and the old coat wears through.

Yes, in the morning. Sealer goes on best between about 50 and 95 degrees, and afternoon pavement runs much hotter than the air.

No. Cracks are repaired first, then sealed over.

Usually 24 to 48 hours; HomeGuide gives 12 to 72 hours depending on conditions.

Hairline cracks get covered; larger cracks are filled first.

Yes. Residents get notice of which sections close and when.

Not once it has cured. Keep foot traffic off for the first few hours and vehicles off for a day or two.

Two thin coats usually wear more evenly than one heavy coat, especially in drive lanes and tire paths.

Cold patch over a weak base does not last. A saw-cut repair removes the failed material and rebuilds the base.

Before the winter rains, ideally in fall, so water stays out of the base.

HomeGuide notes many companies charge $100 to $250 minimum for repairs. Grouping repairs helps.

Yes, once they have cooled and settled.

A pattern of connected cracks that looks like reptile skin. It means the base underneath has failed, and the area needs a full-depth patch.

A saw-cut patch with a rebuilt base can last as long as the surrounding pavement.

Yes. We cut out the settled area, compact new base and repave flush with the slab.

Tires riding the edge, no shoulder support and water running along the side. We rebuild the edge and grade the shoulder to support it.

It depends on the total: 1 for up to 25 spaces, 2 for 26 to 50, 3 for 51 to 75, and so on, with at least one van-accessible space.

HomeGuide says 2 to 5 years. Sunny lots with heavy traffic fall at the short end.

Yes, once the seal has cured. Lines look sharpest on fresh seal.

The DOJ guidance says a site with four or fewer spaces does not need a sign identifying the van-accessible space, though the space itself is still required.

Yes, sized for the trucks and trailers you use.

Sometimes. Stall width, angle and aisle width all affect the count; we show you options first.

Yes. HomeGuide puts stenciled letters and numbers at about $2 to $5 per character.

Yes, where the fire authority requires them or they already exist.

A small lot can often be done in a few hours; larger lots are done in sections over a day or more.